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THE MYTH OF SHANGRI-LA:  TIBET, TRAVEL WRITING AND THE WESTERN CREATION OF SACRED LANDSCAPE

by Peter Bishop

"There are moments during the process of imaginative creation when seemingly diverse fantasies start to beat in time and then swell into a single resonance. A great chord is struck and held for a while. Both participants and listeners seem overcome with the primordial, archetypal purity of the sound. Everything then becomes a signifier for this great imaginative chord. At this moment the sacred place is truly born; its imaginative history begins. It then has its own coherence and logic ... We have come a long way from the vague Romantic generalizations so common earlier in the century."

***

"Whilst the term Aryan had first arisen in the eighteenth century through the discovery of a linguistic relationship between Greek, Latin and Sanskrit, by the 1850s it had outgrown its philological origins. It became associated with the idea of an 'original race' who formed the light-bearing vanguard of true civilization. Darwin's evolutionary theory gave the Aryan fantasy a much-needed scientific framework which also dovetailed beautifully with imperial demands."

***

"What fine baseless fabrics might not a cosmographer build on this situation, who, from a peat or an oyster-shell can determine the different changes which volcanoes, inundations and earthquakes have produced on the face of this globe."

***

"I took one more long took at the boundless prospect. There is no loftier country on the globe than that embraced by this view, and no more howling wilderness. Were it buried in everlasting snows, or burnt by a tropical sun, it might still be as utterly sterile; but with such sterility I had long been familiar. Here the colorings are those of the fiery desert or volcanic island, while the climate is that of the poles."

***

"I find it extremely difficult to describe in an adequate manner the extreme desolation of the most barren parts of Tibet, where no luxuriant forest or bright green herbage softens the nakedness of the mountains, but everywhere the same precipices, heaps of rocks, and barren monotonous desert meets the eye. The prospect before me was certainly most wonderful. I had nowhere before seen a country so utterly waste."

***

"How wonderful the order and perfection of the inorganic universe as compared with the misery and confusion of the organic!  There is some refuge for the spirit in the order and beauty of this unfeeling inorganic nature."

***

"It was, he wrote, a region 'where nothing dies since nothing lives there.'"

***

"Far as the eye could reach, the unknown, unnamed mountains of Tibet indented the bright horizon with their spears and horns."

***

"It struck me forcibly before I left Zanskar that there must be some unknown relationship between the people of that province and the Scottish Highlanders. The sound of their varieties of language, the brooches which fasten their plaids, the varieties of tartan, even the features of the people, strongly reminded me of the Scotch Highlanders."

***

"The pine is trained to need nothing, and to endure everything. It is resolvedly whole, self-contained, desiring nothing but rightness, content with restricted completion."

***

"'What am I?' he asked. And in reply he quoted the Buddhist hymn, 'all is transitory, all is misery, all is void, all is without substance'."

***

"'So cold was the wind that a young eagle fell dead a few yards from my tent.' Of 3,500 yaks assembled by the British army in 1904, only 150 survived the crossing into Tibet. Hedin, on one of his Tibetan explorations, grimly referred to the lengthening 'death-register' of animals. Littledale reported that 'not a day passed but several animals had to be shot or abandoned. It is a gruesome subject which I will not pursue further'. Grenard sorrowfully told a similar tale: 'Our road was marked by the carcasses of our horses.' 'In the end,' he continued, 'all our beasts died, with the exception of two camels. The neighbourhood of the camp became a charnel-house infested with crows and even more horrible huge vultures.' Frostbite killed several soldiers in 1904 as the British crossed the Jeylap-la. Bonvalot had to bury one of his Muslim companions in the frozen ground. Grenard's leader, Dutreuil de Rhins, was killed by Tibetans in 1891. Even more tragic was Dr. Susie Rijnhart, who lost both her small son and her husband whilst trying to reach Lhasa. Grenard, as always, expressed the melancholy of such losses: ' All these miseries, added and multiplied together, gave me the impression that I was sinking into a dark and silent depth from which there is no returning!'"

***

"The palace of the Dalai-Lama is 367 feet in height, and has above 10,000 apartments, being the largest cloister in the world. Its cupolas are gilded in the best style; the interior swarms with friars, is full of idols and pagodas, and may be looked upon as the greatest stronghold of paganism."

***

"The similarly proportioned gloomy portals of Egyptian fanes naturally invite comparison; but the Tibetan temples lack the sublimity of those; and the uncomfortable creeping sensation produced by the many sleepless eyes of Boodh's numerous incarnations is very different from the awe with which we contemplate the outspread wings of the Egyptian symbol, and feel as in the presence of him who says, 'I am Osiris the Great: no man hath dared to lift my veil'."

***

"Lamas as a group were invariably described as crafty and devious in their ability to manipulate the ordinary people of Tibet and the Himalayan region. It was even reasoned that the Chinese Emperor paid homage to the Dalai Lama and his religion only in order to exploit the Lama's capacity to manipulate and control the previously aggressive Mongolian tribes."

***

"No wonder that the people of that country are extremely afraid of disobeying the orders of the Government ... crucifying, ripping open the body, pressing and cutting out the eyes, are by no means the worst of these punishments."

***

"In 1904 The Times's special correspondent, Perceval Landon, accompanying the British expedition fighting its way to Lhasa, paused to visit the Nyen-de-kyi-buk monastery. After tea with the abbot, Landon asked permission to see one of the immured monks for which the monastery was famous. These monks had taken a vow to live in darkness, each walled up and entombed within a small cell just large enough for him to sit in meditation. Some monks entered this rock-hewn home for six months, others for three years and ninety-three days, and many for life. Landon followed the abbot into a small courtyard and watched, 'with cold apprehension', whilst three sharp taps were administered to a stone slab that covered the entrance to one of these cells:   'At first the stone seemed to be stuck, or else the anchorite behind was too weak to move it. Then very slowly and uncertainly it was pushed back and a black chasm revealed. There was a pause of thirty seconds, during which imagination ran riot, but I do not think that any other thing could have been as intensely pathetic as that which we actually saw. A hand, muffled in a tightly-wound piece of dirty cloth, for all the world like the stump of an arm, was painfully thrust up, and very weakly it felt along the slab. After a fruitless fumbling the hand slowly quivered back again into the darkness. A few moments later there was again one ineffectual effort, and then the stone slab moved noiselessly again across the opening.  A physical chill struck through me to the marrow. The awful pathos of that painful movement struggled in me with an intense shame that we had intruded ourselves upon a private misery'."

***

"Indeed, just to be 'above the clouds' placed Tibet into the 'once upon a time', the 'land far away, of fairy-stories. Like the giant's castle at the top of the beanstalk, or the palace of the gods atop Mount Olympus, Tibet was 'above the clouds', ethereal, not of this world, a land of dreams.  Even the border war between Britain and Tibet in 1888 was hardly taken seriously. 'It has one characteristic', commented The Spectator, 'which takes it out of the range of common conflicts. It has been waged above the clouds and not remote from the line of eternal snow.' In 1904 The Spectator again could not quite treat the capture of Lhasa by British troops as a serious event: 'It is more like the adventure which children love as "Jack and the Beanstalk', than any ever recorded by grave historians.'"

***

"The Tibetans were renowned for misleading Western travelers and giving wrong directions. 'It is almost impossible to get the correct names of places or lakes in Tibet, as every Tibetan lies on every occasion on which he does not see a good valid reason for telling the truth,' wrote an exasperated Bower. Elsewhere, he exclaimed: 'it is terribly hard work trying to get geographical information out of Tibetans, and when in exceptional cases, as does occasionally happen, a vein of truth runs through their statements, it is so fine as to be almost impossible to discover'."

***

"Grenard wryly mentioned finding 'a box containing six cakes of scented soap, which were the only specimens of soap that could be discovered within the radius of Lhasa in the month of January 1894 and which their purchaser was delighted to sell to us after having them for forty years in his shop'."

***

"The Tibetans seemed to inhabit a pre-Copernican world. The flat-earth theory had long been a source of amusement in the West, a sign of medieval ignorance and stubbornness, if not lunacy. Younghusband reported a conversation with the head abbot of the Tashi Lumpo monastery, near Shigatse. He was, wrote Younghusband, 'a courteous, kindly man', 'a charming old gentleman'. However, he firmly interjected when Younghusband 'let slip some observation that the earth was round'. Younghhusband continued: '[he] assured me that when I had lived longer in Tibet, I should find that it was not round, but flat, and not circular, but triangular, like the bone of a shoulder of mutton.'"

***

"Gold is, of course, a major symbol for the goal of psychic transformation. For the alchemist it represented both the aspiration and the completion of the opus, the spiritual journey. As Jung writes, gold is a symbol of eternity, of paradise, and hence of the psychological centre. In relation to gold, he quotes an alchemical text: 'Visit the centre of the earth. There you will find the global fire.' Wilson echoed these sentiments when he wrote: 'It is no wonder, then, that a Chinese proverb speaks of Tibet as being at once the most elevated and the richest country in the world. If the richest mineral treasures in the world lie there, there is abundant reason why strangers should be kept out of it and why it should be kept sacred for the Yellow religion.  The great cluster of mountains called the Thibetan Kailas well deserves to be called the centre of the world. It is, at least the greatest centre of elevation."

***

"The Potala palace was not just a receptacle for pagan gold and Tibetan superstition; it would also soon become that place on the whole globe where the greatest accumulation of imaginative gold, the aspirations of Western travelers, could be found.  Gold speaks of salvation, paradise, boundless wealth, the centre of the world, the meeting point of earth and heaven."

***

"Landon compared the romantic fantasies conjured up by 'the Golden Roofs of Potala' with those of Rome in 'the opium-sodden imagination of De Quincey'."

***

"The continued closure of this land was therefore essential and Wilson, whilst protesting against it, was unconsciously defending this policy: if the real 'secret' about the 'wealth' of Tibet ever leaked out, the place would surely be overrun and hence made worthless."

-- The Myth of Shangri-La, by Peter Bishop

Lost Horizon, by James Hilton
Prester John, by Wikipedia
The Shadow of the Dalai Lama, by Victor and Victoria Trimondi
The CIA's Secret War in Tibet, by Kenneth Conboy and James Morrison
Forgotten Man, from "The Book of Honor," by Ted Gup
Paradox, by Tara Carreon
 

Table of Contents

Introduction
Maps

  1. An Imaginative Geography
  2. Tibet Discovered (1773-92)
  3. Inventing the Threshold (1792-1842)
  4. The Axis Mundi Appears (mid-nineteenth century)
  5. Outside Time and Space (1875-1914)
  6. Lost Horizons:  From Sacred Place to Utopia (1904-59)
  7. Conclusion:  The Empty Vessel

Notes
Bibliography
Index


Introduction

The concept of sacred place has been important in religious studies but has usually been applied to sites that are either traditional, such as in Australian Aboriginal culture, or well established, as for example in Classical Greece.  Such sacred sites are therefore presented as somewhat static, as fixed and complete.  By tracing the images evoked in the encounter between Tibet and travelers from Europe, Russia and America, but especially from Britain, this study aims to examine the phenomenology of a sacred place in the process of its creation, fulfillment and subsequent decline.  It explores the differences between a geographical location, a sacred place and a utopia.  The study is especially concerned with the relationship between the interior phenomenology of a sacred place and the wider context outside its boundaries.  It is therefore less of a historical narrative than an in-depth analysis of the inner meanings that Tibet came to hold directly for a considerable number of Westerners and also indirectly for their cultures as a whole.

A way of reading the texts of travel and exploration is developed.  It sees them as psychological documents, as statements of a psychology of extraversion, which reveal significant aspects both of the fantasy-making processes of a culture and of its unconscious.  In addition it explores the complex relationship between geography, imagination and spirituality.

While the study is methodologically based in archetypal psychology, it also draws widely from such disciplines as humanistic geography and French deconstructionism in an attempt to situate the travel texts within a series of broad psychological and social contexts.  It is therefore an attempt to develop an imaginal approach to cultural analysis, one that traces the movement and transformation of images whilst simultaneously leading them back to their root-metaphors.  The study is unique in that it presents one complete tradition of travel writing.  As such it throws light on the development of the wider genre of travel writing itself, and its place in the complexities of Western spirituality.

The primary texts are those written by explorers and travelers both in Tibet and also around its borders -- in the Himalayas and in Central Asia -- between 1773 and 1959.  These years have been selected because they mark the boundary between the first British visitor to Tibet in modern times and the final exile of Tibet's spiritual and secular ruler, the Dalai Lama.  Whilst travelers from many Western nations journeyed to Tibet during this period, relations between Tibet and the Western world were dominated by the British.  This was primarily due to their presence as imperialists in India and the Himalayan region.  It is therefore this relationship which serves as a focus for the study.  All the primary texts have been published in English.  This is less of a restriction than it would first appear to be, for travelers and explorers to Tibet formed a fairly cohesive international community, one which shared interest and familiarity, if not friendship.  They were certainly familiar with each other's work.  This fact, together with the British government's vested interest in the region, ensured that most accounts were soon translated into English.

Tibet is revealed in these texts as an imaginal complexity rather than a unity -- a conclusion that is perhaps widely applicable to sacred sites.  There were many 'Tibets': historically, as the wider social and psychological contexts altered, and as the place itself acquired its own imaginative momentum; and synchronically, as through each traveler was expressed a very particular archetypal style of fantasy.  At certain, limited moments, such imaginal diversity assumed a common coherence -- usually under pressure from institutions such as the Royal Geographical Society, or from the more diffuse promptings of a collective need, or from the coherence of Tibet itself, its genius loci; but the place was always a site of contending fantasies.  This study shows that the interior phenomenology of Tibet as a sacred place was never sharply delineated and isolated from the demands of the outside world -- indeed that the two spaces continually interpenetrated each other -- and that the threshold of a sacred place is a significant region in its own right, one that expresses imaginal depth and tension.  A sacred place is in a continual state of process.

The creation of Tibet is located within the wider struggle by Europeans to redefine both global geography and their own place within it.  The emergence of a geopolitical imagination and a mythology of imperialism are seen as crucial to Western fantasies of Tibet.  By tracing the recent history of Western perceptions of Himalayan, Central Asian and Tibetan landscape, this study reveals the late-nineteenth-century development of a radically new aesthetic appreciation of wilderness regions.  The crucial struggle between empirical observation and imaginative interpretation is identified and documented.  The development of a wilderness aesthetic is traced to a series of separate imaginative moves:  for example, a shift of emphasis away from landscape forms and an increased awareness of light and color; Darwin's theory, which drew all the landscapes of the world into a common schema; then Ruskin's achievement in laying the basis for a kind of natural morality of landscape; and finally, the sense that many Westerners had of belonging to such distant places.

A close imagistic reading of the texts makes it clear that Tibet has provided many in the West with a sense of historical continuity -- whether through associations with archaic ancestors, or with Ancient Egypt, or with some primal occult wisdom.  Tibetan religion, culture and geography were intertwined and virtually inseparable in Western fantasies until the first half of the twentieth century.  Then, under the increasing sense of threat to the perceived isolation and purity of Tibet, there was a separation between fantasy and geographical place.  'Shangri-La' marks the final movement of Tibet from a geographically grounded sacred place to a placeless utopia.

Maps

Greater Tibet and Surrounding Countries in 1900

The Physical Features of Greater Tibet in 1900

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